This Bukidnon-based café serves award-winning Binakbak

by: Kristal Noriz T. Ras, ATI Northern Mindanao

Malaybalay Coty, Bukidnon- The pandemic of 2020 brought the world to a standstill. Roads were closed, families stayed indoors, and the once-busy streets turned quiet.

Trends came and went, from new hobbies to endless online classes yet amid the stillness, a quiet question began to take root in many hearts:

How can we make our time productive? How can we make food accessible?

And so, people turned to the soil. The rise of plantitas, hydroponics setups, and backyard gardens became a way to find peace and purpose. When everything else stopped, growing food became an act of hope — an act of self-sufficiency in uncertain times.

For Sanny Carpio, owner of Greenhouse Garden & Café in Malaybalay City, Bukidnon, that initiative began as a simple homegrown garden. Like many others, he wanted to ensure that his family ate only clean, natural, and healthy food that could strengthen the body and the soul. “We wanted to eat healthy and share that same goodness with others,” he said.

What started as a need turned into a livelihood rooted in purpose. That small patch of land, first tended during the lockdown, slowly flourished. It started with lettuce and herbs grown through a Kratky hydroponics system — a simple, electricity-free setup that made use of styrofoam boxes and patience. Soon, what began as a backyard experiment started catching attention online. A few Facebook posts led to regular orders, and regular orders grew into a vision.

As the garden matured, so did Sanny’s connection to the community. Originally from Sto. Tomas, Batangas, he found a new home and identity in Bukidnon, a province known for its fertile land, strong farming culture, and cowboy roots. It was here that he first encountered binaki — a local corn delicacy, soft, sweet, and wrapped in corn husks.

Meanwhile, Sanny’s wife, Lyn, along with Bebz, their househelp of 16 years who now serves as their resident cook, had the idea of elevating the snacking experience by serving the traditional binakbak.

According to Bebz, binaki and binakbak differ in how they are wrapped using young corn leaves. The binaki is wrapped in a conical shape, resembling a “frog’s leg,” while the binakbak is folded into a triangular shape, similar to the back of a frog. The term binakbak is traditionally used by the Lumads when preparing the dish to present to an important guest or given as a special gift.

Recalling her younger days in Malitbog, Bukidnon, Bebz fondly remembers how her mother used to make binakbak for special occasions. Now, as the head of the kitchen at Greenhouse Garden & Cafe, she continues to cook the traditional binakbak, with Sanny and Lyn as her food critics. Intrigued by its simplicity, Sanny began experimenting with the said delicacy.

In March 2023, Lyn entered Sanny and Bebz in the Binaki Dessert Contest during the SUSUDAEN Food Fest themed “From Farm to Table: Highlighting Malaybalay’s Rich Culinary Heritage.” Competing against seasoned local chefs, Sanny gave the binakbak recipe a modern twist, refining and enhancing its flavor in just five days to appeal to contemporary food enthusiasts while reintroducing it to a younger generation. Through their version of binakbak, he offered something both familiar and new, his own unique take on this beloved traditional corn-based delicacy.

His creation won top recognition. And from that victory, “binakbak” was reborn for the modern palate, still shaped into a distinct triangle, like a small frog or bakbak in the local dialect.

Each binakbak begins like a seed carefully chosen, nurtured, and handled with intention. Only Class A young corn from trusted local farmers is used. Every ear is peeled gently, the husks set aside as wrappers, while the golden kernels are grated and ground to release their natural sweetness.

The mixture, combined with a secret blend of ingredients, is hand-wrapped in corn husks, shaped into its signature triangle, then steamed for 30 minutes. When unwrapped, the binakbak reveals a soft, fragrant, and moist texture, golden and delicate, much like the crop that inspired it.

“We stick to the traditional way,” Sanny shared. “No artificial flavors, no shortcuts. Every piece is done by hand. It’s really a labor of love.”

Each batch takes nearly six hours from start to finish, five for preparation, and another hour and a half for steaming. Priced at ₱30 per piece, it’s not the cheapest binakbak around, but those who try and taste it understand why.

Like any growing crop, binakbak’s farm-to-plate journey faced storms. There were times when corn supplies ran low and orders had to be delayed. Despite the challenges, the Carpio couple never cut corners. The flavor and texture of binakbak depended on quality, and compromising was never an option. Each difficulty became a reminder that growth takes patience, the same patience a farmer gives his field.

“We make sure that all our consumers from youngsters to boomers can enjoy the soft, delicate, and delicious binakbak. We’re always open to experimenting with new flavors,” Sanny said, “but for now, we keep the original. It’s naturally sweet, uniquely shaped, and proudly ours.”

Today, Greenhouse Garden & Café stands as a thriving testament to how something small can grow into something meaningful. What started as a lockdown project has become a farm-to-table café with six staff, where culture, creativity, and community come together. And at the heart of it all is binakbak, the sweet harvest of resilience and love for the land.

Soft, sweet, and wrapped in care, binakbak is not just a delicacy; it is proof that even the smallest seed, when nurtured with love, can grow into something that feeds not just the body, but also the soul.

For inquiries, Greenhouse Garden & Café can be reached via their official Facebook page: Greenhouse Garden Café or through their contact numbers 09971407323 / 09175519918 when you’re in Malaybalay City, Bukidnon.